STRUTS || J.R.CARPENTER
A Bay.
The Bay.
To Bay.
At Bay.
On a body of water forming an indentation of the shoreline larger than a cove but smaller than a gulf extending into woodland comprising various laurel-like trees and shrubs and several magnolias, an animal of reddish-brown colour, having a reddish-brown body, wearing an honorary garland, askew, turned to face its pursuers.
Partially surrounded by hills, no longer in any position to flee, on the deck, in the space between the anchor windlass and the stern, the bay let out a deep and prolonged howl.
No part of Nova Scotia is more than 50 kilometres from the sea.
Thousands of kilometres of coastline comprised of innumerable islands, headlands, coastal estuaries, and inlets almost entirely surround the province, giving it a distinctive character. Three-quarters of the population of Nova Scotia live within 10 kilometres of salt-water. The sights, sounds, and odours of the sea, marshes, and beaches dwell in the mind of each inhabitant. No phenomenon connected with the sea is more familiar and more striking than the rise and fall of the tides. Twice a day the water recedes from the coast and twice a day it returns: rising against the rocky cliffs and over the sandy beaches, rushing up the tidal rivers, or creeping along innumerable channels among the coastal marshes. The rhythm of daily life is often determined by the tides. Harbours empty entirely, then quickly fill. Wharves surrounded by water at one time of day, may be high and dry at another.
No one in a boat should approach or depart from shore without knowing the stage of the tide and the flow of the tidal currents, and no visit to the shore should be planned without knowing whether the water is moving in or is receding down the beach.
The Northumberland Strait is a tidal body of water separating Prince Edward Island from mainland Canada. It extends west-northwest to east-southeast from Richibucto Cape, New Brunswick, to Cape George, Nova Scotia, with a length of 223 kilometres and a width of between 13-43 kilometres.
The Northumberland Strait was formed when pre-glacial and glacial valleys eroded into red sandstone and siltstone lead from both ends into the floor of the Gulf of Saint-Lawrence. The retreat of glacial ice from the area about 13,000 years ago was followed by flooding but isostatic uplift kept the sea at bay. What is now the central area of the strait was then an isthmus, joining the opposite coasts. By 5000 years ago, the rising sea level had flooded this land link, establishing the strait, which has been deepening slowly. Its current depth is 68 meters at its eastern end, but less than 20 meters over the large central area that was once an isthmus.
The Northumberland Strait is one of Canada's most volatile marine environments. Its generally shallow depth gives it the warmest summer water temperature in eastern Canada, which makes it an ideal environment for summer tourist activity as well as a prolific shellfish and lobster fishery. These shallow depths also cause strong tidal currents and water turbulence. The Northumberland Strait can experience extreme storm surges and is an area of rapidly rising sea level. Its shores support major agricultural, peat harvesting and forestry industries, as well as intensive cottage development, all of which encourage soil run off. Its waters have long been notorious for their high concentration of suspended red silt and clay - in fact, early French settlers called the Strait "la mer rouge" (the red sea).
Over the past few years, fishers in the Northumberland Strait have been noticing more sediment on their lobster traps as they pull them up, more sediment overall in the water, and the lobster fishery has been slumping. Some link the timing of these changes to the completion of the Confederation Bridge in 1997. In the face of these concerns, the Northumberland Strait Ecosystem Working Group, which is responsible for setting the research program for the Strait, asked scientists at Fisheries and Oceans Canada (DFO) to clarify whether or not there actually is increased sediment in the water. The result was a unique partnership between the scientists and the fishing community. It was also a quick response, at little cost, to a pressing problem.
Big questions remain, with no easy answers. Is there a link between the lobsters' lifecycle, abundance fluctuations and sediment in the water, or is it just part of a natural cycle? Is there any link to pollutants entering the water from run off? And what is the impact, if any, of the Confederation Bridge? Historical records for the entire southern Gulf of Saint Lawrence show that commercial lobster catches were strong in the early 1900s, but slumped three-fold by the 1920s and stayed that way until the 1970s, at which point there was a sharp increase in the population. This peaked in 1991 with record catches, but has been decreasing since. Lobster catches in the Northumberland Strait experienced almost identical fluctuations over the same period. No one knows for sure what triggered these past slumps and booms.
Big questions remain, with no easy answers. Is there a link between the lobsters' lifecycle, abundance fluctuations and sediment in the water, or is it just part of a natural cycle? Is there any link to pollutants entering the water from run off? And what is the impact, if any, of the Confederation Bridge? Historical records for the entire southern Gulf of St. Lawrence show that commercial lobster catches were strong in the early 1900s, but slumped three-fold by the 1920s and stayed that way until the 1970s, at which point there was a sharp increase in the population. This peaked in 1991 with record catches, but has been decreasing since. Lobster catches in the Northumberland Strait experienced almost identical fluctuations over the same period. No one knows for sure what triggered these past slumps and booms.
Part of the magic conjured by the incantation of place names resides in the narrative resonance between the now of the speech-act and the many pasts of the places named.
Tantramar.
The Tantramar River.
The Tantramar Marsh.
Near Sackville, New Brunswick.
You know, that windy bit of road. Where, at night, the eerie red lights of the radio relay towers glow. In Westmorland County, on the southern part of the Isthmus of Chignecto, which joins the peninsula of Nova Scotia to the mainland. To Canada. Atlantic Canada. The Maritimes. The east coast.
The town of Sackville was first known as Pre des Bourgs and the surrounding region as Beaubassin by the Acadians who settled there in 1672. Pre des Bourgs, Beaubassin, Acadie, Nouvelle France, the New World. The Beaubassin seigneury, granted in 1684, was named after Michael Leneuf de Beaubassin the elder (1640-1705), an officer in the French Navy who seized three English vessels from Boston that were taking on coal at Cape Breton. Beaubassin is a place named after a person named after a place, a location located within the discourse of residency. When the British expelled the Acadians from Acadie in 1755, their name became their nation and travelled with them. The meaning of all the named locations they left behind them changed. The region formerly known as Beaubassin is now called Tantramar. Sackville, New Brunswick, is located on a tributary of the Tantramar River, which feeds the Tantramar Marsh, which spreads inland from the Bay of Fundy for 10 kilometres. In Joseph Des Barres's
Atlantic Neptune, a collection of sea charts published by the Royal Navy in 1776, the Tantramar River is named the Tintamar River. A Spanish spelling makes no sense given the Mi'kmaq, Acadian, English history of this place. But the meaning "Red Sea" does. The Tantramar River flows into the Cumberland Basin, which flows into Chignecto Bay, which flows into the Bay of Fundy, which has the highest tides in the world. When the tide goes out, it goes way out and keeps on going. It leaves behind acres of salt marsh, salt hay thriving in hard, rich, sticky, red soil, and beyond that, red mud flats glistening mile after mile, where, as the part Nova Scotia poet Elisabeth Bishop writes, "silted red, sometimes the sun sets facing a red sea, and others, veins the flats' lavender, rich mud in burning rivulets." Although it is possible to entertain for a moment the notion that the name Tantramar was assigned to this red mud glazed with sky by a cartographer of Spanish origin, or one who had previously written the coastlines of Spanish dominions, the name Tintamar written in the
Atlantic Neptune is most certainly a miss-spelling of the Acadian French name Tintamarre, which in turn was both a toponomic transformation of the Mi'kmaq name Tatamalg, meaning Scrambled River, and a reference to the noisy flocks of migratory birds which feed on the Tantramar marshes. Today the marshes are the site of two bird sanctuaries, one of which carries the old Acadian name Tintamarre.
A tropical cyclone struck eastern Canada's Bay of Fundy region on the night of October 4-5, 1869. It caused extensive destruction to port facilities and communities along the Bay of Fundy coast in both New Brunswick and Nova Scotia as well as in Maine, particularly in Calais, St. Andrews, St. George, Saint John, Moncton, Sackville, Amherst, Windsor and Truro. The gale destroyed miles of the newly completed Windsor and Annapolis Railway along the Minas Basin near Horton and Wolfville, Nova Scotia.
Much of the devastation was attributed to a two-metre high storm surge, which coincided with a high perigean spring tide in the Bay of Fundy, which has one of the highest tidal ranges in the world. The storm surge produced waves which breached dykes protecting low-lying farmland in the Minas Basin and in the Tantramar Marshes, sending ocean waters surging far inland, inundating farms and communities. Sailing ships in various harbours were tossed about and/or broken up against wharves and breakwaters, which were also destroyed. The Saxby Gale storm surge gave Burntcoat Head, Nova Scotia the honour of having highest tidal range ever recorded.
The storm (which pre-dated the practice of naming hurricanes) was given the name "Saxby" in honour of Lieutenant Stephen Saxby, Royal Navy. Lieutenant Saxby, a naval instructor and amateur astronomer, had written a letter of warning, published December 25, 1868 in London's The Standard newspaper, in which he noted that the astronomical forces predicted for October 5, 1869, would produce extremely high tides in the North Atlantic Ocean during the height of hurricane season:
"I now beg leave to the state, with regard to 1869, that at seven a.m., on October 5, the moon will be at that part of her orbit which is nearest to the earth. Her attraction will, therefore, be at its maximum force. At noon of the same day the moon will be on the earth's equator, a circumstance which never occurs without mark atmospheric disturbance, and at two p.m. of the same day lines drawn from the earth centre would cut the sun and moon in the same arc of right ascension (the moon's attraction and the sun's attraction will therefore be acting in the same direction); in other words, the new moon will be on the earth's equator when in perigee, and nothing more threatening can, I say, occur without miracle. (The earth, it is true, will not be in perihelion and by some 16 or 17 seconds of semi-diameter.)
With your permission, I will, during September next, for the safety of mariners, briefly reminding your readers of this warning. In the meantime there will be time for the repair of unsafe sea walls, and for the circulation of this notice by means of your far-reaching voice, throughout the wide world."
Lieutenant Saxby followed this warning with a reminder, published on September 16, 1869, to The Standard in which he also warns of a major "atmospheric disturbance" that would coincide with the high water level at an undetermined location. Many newspapers took up Saxby's warning in the coming days.
In a monthly weather column published October 1, 1869 in Halifax's The Evening Express, amateur meteorologist Frederick Allison relayed Lieutenant Saxby's warning for a devastating storm the following week.
Despite the warning, many readers throughout the United Kingdom, Canada, Newfoundland and the United States dismissed Saxby. There were frequently gales and hurricanes during the month of October. The fact that the high tides occurred throughout the North Atlantic basin was unremarkable and astronomically predictable, except for their coinciding with the hurricane, which struck the Gulf of Maine and Bay of Fundy to produce the devastating storm surge. Lieutenant Saxby's predictions were considered quite lunatic at the time. Some believed that his predictions were founded upon astrology, which was not the case.
A gale did strike, on the evening of October 4th, 1869. By all accounts weather that afternoon had given no cause for uneasiness. The day had dawned without the slightest sign of anything unusual or foreboding. Along the New Brunswick coast, from Saint Stephen to Saint John, water lapped gently against the wharf pilings, under a blanket of fog, which later cleared, giving way to a warm sunny morning. A perfect Autumn day.
Then, about noon, at the entrance to harbour at Yarmouth, Nova Scotia, whitecaps began to appear. A slight breeze from the southwest steadily gathered strength. As the afternoon advanced, the heat became oppressive. Out by the Yarmouth lighthouse, at The Churn, on the way to Cape Forchu, the waves began to boom. Soon the Michaelmas daisies were wet with drifting spray. Southward, the sky loomed dull and leaden, darkening as the afternoon wore on, the rising wind scudding storm clouds. By five o'clock the wind reached hurricane force. By six, trees were falling, as if felled by an axe. By nine o'clock the Saxby Gale was at its height.
As the gale raced up the Bay of Fundy it swept the water on ahead and forced it into the inner bays and inlets - into Shepody Bay, Cumberland Basin and Minas Basin. Oddly enough, it hardly affected Nova Scotia's Atlantic coast - the South shore and the Eastern shore, but confined itself to communities along New Brunswick's Fundy coast - and the inner reaches of Minas Basin and Chignecto Bay.
An account of the storm appeared in the Amherst Gazette three days later, which said that: "the tide must have been eight feet above the ordinary high-water level and four feet above the dykes." Elsewhere it was reported that, in the town of Annapolis, Nova Scotia, site of the first European over-winter settlement in North America, water was knee-deep on Lower Saint George Street. At Grand Pre, site of the British expulsion of the Acadians, the tide breached the Great Horton Dyke, flooding 3,000 acres and drowning herds of cattle. Windsor's Water Street flowed like a canal in Venice, and the Windsor Baptist Church had seven feet of water in the vestry. At Moncton, New Brunswick, at the foot of South King Street, the tide rose nine feet over the Harris wharf up onto the warehouses destroying supplies of salt, flour and other perishables.
The greatest destruction of all took place on the Tantramar Marshes on border between New Brunswick and Nova Scotia. Cattle and sheep were still out to pasture. As the wind rose to gale force they huddled in the lee of the many haystacks and hay barns that dotted the marshes, well protected, it seemed, by the outer dykes that rose 25 feet high. Some of their owners, however, grew worried and decided to go out and inspect their hay barns only to discover that the dykes were crumbling. A great tidal wave inundated the Tantramer Marshes sweeping before it a churning floatsam of hay barns and haystacks and struggling animals. Farmers trying to rescue livestock from fields along shorelines drowned after dykes were breached.
No one really knows how many lives were lost in that gale. Certainly over 100 people were killed in the Maritimes alone. In the churchyard at Hillsborough, in Albert County, New Brunswick, there is a whole section of tombstones raised to the victims of the Saxby "tide", as some called it, because it was the phenomenal tide that accounted for most of the casualties. In Moncton there's a marker at Boreview Park, along with a plaque indicating the height of the tide as it stood just before midnight, a moment before the 5th of October 1869.
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